How's my hair?!Although I have consistently had to show my ID over the last few months when ordering a glass of wine in America there is  no escaping from the fact that I am no longer young – this is also reflected in surprised faces and apologies of the waitstaff once they check my birth date. This also means that, little by little and on purely realistic grounds, I too have started to cross out items from my imaginary things-still-to-do-list. While some things are still hanging on there – I might yet go and skydive one fine day! – others are becoming less and less likely. For example, I am now reasonably certain that I will never climb Mt. Everest nor will I become a famous DJ.

There was once a movie, called Point Break, where young Patrick Swayze was robbing banks whenever he was not surfing the waves, and even younger Keanu Reeves was trying to catch him. I remember watching it back in university days and thinking that this is way cool and that one day I will have to check this surfing thing out myself. With each additional year lived and pound gained, the mental image of me running into the booming surf somewhere in Pacific with a trusty board under my arm was becoming ever more pathetic and silly, and I suppose that by the beginning of this year I had pretty much put it off.

But who knows! Eating less and exercising more can clearly do wonders and I am now in a shape that I honestly never hoped to see any more when looking into mirror. And as I have about 10 days before I have to be in LA, I decided to fly there with a brief change of planes in Honolulu, and to be on a safe side I planned a layover of 6 days. So there – while waiting for my connecting flight I might take a few surf lessons in Waikiki.

Of course, my prior experiences with snowboard and windsurfing have taught me to manage my expectations on how fast I will be ripping those waves at Hawaii beaches – in all likelihood this all will end simply with a bruised ego and few swallowed gallons of saltwater as a price for finally shakily riding one shallow wave to the shore. But I don’t count on getting many more chances to try this while making only a marginal fool of myself – so here I come, Hawaii!

And sunscreen, of course, is for wimps!


6 thoughts on “Aloha!

  1. careful there. did my first “surf lessons” in nicaragua few months ago with a mean hombre called something like sanchez and have to tell you that it can hurt :). but… it is also extremly fun.

    though i would not imagine myself climbing (sorry i meant clinging) on(to) a board first time in my life in hawaii. is there such thing as beginners beach around there?

  2. Apparently Waikiki beach is one of the best places on earth to learn to surf – went to see it today and it looked pretty tame.

  3. I don’t know what exactly did hombre Sanchez do to you that he later called “a surf lesson” – the most painful part of my today’s experience was a bit of a knee rash from getting up on board. And might of course have some muscle ache tomorrow from all the paddling..

    Must agree on the fun part though, I really hope the rash relents overnight and I can get back in water tomorrow. All in all, a lot easier than I expected – when compared to something like learning to snowboard which takes about two days and can REALLY hurt.

  4. ofcourse there’s always simple stupidity involved when beginning something :). i almost got hit by a board in the face coming off a wave, twisted my finger trying to grab the leash and wave taking the board, plus countless bruises and rash on the knees. mind you i stayed in the water for hours for four days or as long as i could paddle… fun it is!

  5. Ok, the rash is indeed a bit painful.. Also, today I was almost hit in face by a board of some Japanese guy who decided to drop in right above me and then got wiped out – that would surely have hurt quite a bit. Also, I hear that surfing and getting wiped out on shallow reefs can be rather unpleasant experience, but sandbars of Waikiki beach are very beginner-friendly.

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